Review: The Champagne Bar at One New Change

The pink Champagne on ice

When Keith I heard there was a Champagne Bar opening at One New Change, adjaent to St Paul’s Cathedral, we were restless until we locked down a date to partake in trying the establishment.  Searcy’s, the company behind the bar, are continuing to expand their ever growing empire. Their formula is genius. They appeal to people who now and again desire to feel special, especially when celebrating. Searcy’s are also credited with owning the largest Champagne bar in Europe (situated at St Pancras Station). When we stopped by last Friday, with a friend, we were surprised to find that there were no hoards of thirsty punters also clambering for honey coloured liquid sustenance. Instead, there were pockets of people who were relaxing into the weekend.

We were shown to a table and the staff were immediately attentive. We selected a Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs Réserve Privée Grand Cru NV (£85). Bruno Paillard founded in the early 1980s are a relatively new Champagne house.  Although comparatively small alongside the Bollingers, Taittingers and Lansons of the world, they have managed to elevate themselves to a prestigious and reputable status. The Champagne was served in elegant, elongated lily shaped stemmed glasses.  We were not expecting for the Champagne to be as tart as it was, but that first sip was heaven. Whether it was the brightness on the nose which instantly alighted us, or the green apple crispness, citrus and peach, we could hear the weekdays’ shackles click and unlock. 

Worthy of note were the impressive list of Champagnes by the glass, as well as by the bottle.  Finding a decent selection of Champagnes (and wines for that matter) by the glass is an ongoing challenge for most oenophiles. However, Searcy’s lists include Bruts, rosés, vintage, blanc de blancs, demi sec, prestige cuvée as well as decantable Champagnes.  Impressive.  It sounds oxymoronic to say there are Champagnes to suit all budgets.  Do not worry if Champagne is not number one on your drink list; Searcy’s also offer a limited range of beers, wines and cocktails.

Having polished off the first bottle amidst animated chatter, we then selected a Philipponnat Rosé (NV) (£75). We were feeling peckish, so ordered a large mixed seafood plate (£12), large charcuterie plate (£12) and foie gras marinated in green peppercorns (£6.50).  You may think that everything we have listed sounds plenty for three, but we were not wowed by the nibbles verus the price.  The seafood platter was the best of the three.  In particular the prawns were meaty, chunky and fresh.  The crab (served in the jar), was an endearing idea but tasted bland and unseasoned.  You would have expected a lemon segment, but there was nothing.  The Charcuterie plate only had two slices of each type of cured meat, so not much of a sharing plate– none of which were outstanding.  The foie gras, should have been the highlight.  It had a beautiful glistening tanned sheen. However, it too had no discernible taste. Conversely, the Philipponnat Champagne was fantastically effervescent and sprightly.  It was perfectly balanced, which made it a pleasure to drink.

Our biggest let down came towards the end of our visit.  At eleven o’clock on the dot we were presented with our bill without having asked for it.  After spending over two hundred pounds we found this rude and unnecessary. The service up until that point had been impeccable, some may have argued, even over the top.  Having a bill presented to us without having asked for it is wholly unacceptable.

It did feel strange to be staring across at a North face clothing store and Wasabi noodle and sushi bar, whilst sipping Champagne.  We would have preferred to be slightly more cocooned from the shopping mall. The food is not worth returning for at all, but the appeal of Searcy’s Champagne Bar at One New Change, is the instant availably to a decent range of Champagnes by the glass as well as en vogue restaurants at close range.  Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa and Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen (soon to open) will make this bar an ideal setting for budding Romeos attempting to woo their Juliet or groups celebrating a special occasion.

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Review: 69 Colebrook Row, a clandestine nook in Islington's buzzing night life

A perfect re-creation of the speakeasy

I find bars very tricky to review. This is because you may not get a positive vibe on your first visit but this does not mean the bar should be discredited. Why? An experience of an evening in a bar can rest on not just your company, but the interaction with those around you, the number of staff serving, choice of beverages, the type and volume of music playing, the state of the toilets, the availability of food. Then to top if off the general ambience is a huge contributor to its success.

We have to admit, we are more fussy about our bars than our restaurants in some ways. If we like a bar (or pub) there is an 100% chance we will be back.

Now to 69 Colebrook Row. 69 Colebrook Row is the Artist Formerly known as Prince or “Symbol” of London's nightlife.  It does not have a name, but has come to be known as 69 Colebrook Row. Before Christmas we spent an evening there. We had an amazing night, but as we left we had one incident which set our blood alight. On Wennie's Affairs, we operate on the basis if we do not like you, we “ignore” you. Therefore we made the decision, we would not blog about our experience.

One month later however, we have been philosophical about the incident and concluded that the spoilt evening was the result of a waitress and not the establishment itself.  Thus we returned, enabling 69 to exonerate itself.

Now that we have contextualised this review we will address the aspects which we loved.

It is possible to walk past “69” without ever knowing it is there. The facade is unassuming and discreet. The entire bar area is about 6 metres by 5 metres. It is very dark and the windows are covered with shutters which contributes to the clandestine speakeasy feel.  The decor is reminiscent of the US prohibition between the wars era when alcohol was illegal.  Soft swing music jauntily played in the background. The intermittent nutty rattle of the cocktail shaker and white coated bar men added to the sentiment of days gone by. 

The drinks array was not plentiful, but adequate. Between the two of us we must have tried the majority of the cocktails on the menu. This both says something about the length of the list and our ability to put some away. We could not fault the cocktails. They were exquisitely prepared. The mastermind behind the cocktails is Tony Conigliaro, who had previously been at the Shochu Lounge. He has been described as the Heston Blumenthal of cocktail makers.  A particular favourite was Almond Blossom and Green Apple Bellini. Effervescent and zingy, the cocktail had juicy pressed apple sediment which were bursting with flavour.

We were peckish so ordered a plate of amuse bouche, which was a cruel treat of cured meat with cheese.  The bite-sized snacks were tasty, but did not last long, hence my reference to “cruel”.

It was the penultimate Friday before Christmas when we first visited 69.  Maybe the Christmas countdown was the reason behind the buzz in the air.  Perhaps, it was the relief from being shut in (or shutting the world out) from party mania.  Whatever it was, we felt privileged as potential customers were turned away in their droves.  It is advisable to call and book to ensure a seating for you and your company. 

We hope the fact that we had a bad experience and still returned is worth something.  If you are not convinced, may we add a second incident which took place upon our return.  A group of customers walked into the bar in a flurry and in an act of clumsiness knocked over Keith's almost drained cocktail.  Within seconds a man descended with paper towels to mop up the spillage and Keith's drink was replaced.  Commendable handling from the staff.

If you enjoy conversing with your company where you are not shouting above music, impeccably prepared cocktails and a sensual atmosphere, 69 will be for you.

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