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Entries in Indian (7)

Sunday
Mar062011

Recipe: Kitchari - Healing Comfort Food from India

So mish-mash you slash and go go go

During the rule of Queen Victoria and era of the British Empire, it was customary for colonials returning from India to have kedgeree for breakfast. Kedgeree is a curry flavoured rice with smoked fish, boiled eggs and butter. We were curious about the roots of this strange morning meal and discovered that in India, they have been tucking into something similar for centuries. The origins of kedgeree lie in a rice dish boiled with beans or lentils with added left overs and scraps. Translation from Hindi of kitchari literally means “mish-mash”, describing the rather random nature of the recipe. An Indian friend once described how their mother would cook kitchari when they were ill, as the lentils have a cleansing effect on the body, the rice would provide energy and the spices and subtle heat makes it comforting.

We were not ill, but felt like having a warming dinner as it was a cold outside. I've cooked kedgeree as a relatively quick to whip up post-gym brunch in the past but on this occasion I wanted to explore its roots.

Traditionally, kitchari would be served on its own, but we accompanied it with Atul Kochar's Tandoori chicken and a cucumber raita.

Ingredients

  • 50g basmati rice
  • 50g split red lentils
  • 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
  • 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 2 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 cloves
  • 2 cardamom pods
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
  • 2 tbsp chopped leaf coriander
  • 750ml vegetable stock

Method

  1. Combine the rice and lentils in a large bow and wash together. Leave to soak for 20 minutes.
  2. After 15 minutes, heat oil on a low to medium heat in a large pan and add the onion and garlic.
  3. Drain the water from the rice and lentils and add to the onions and stir
  4. Add the bay leaf, salt and spices and cook for a further minute.
  5. Add the hot stock, and turn down to a low heat. Place a lid on the pan and leave it for 12 minutes.
  6. When cooked the water should been absorbed and the rice should be slightly moist and sticky.
  7. Sprinkle over with fresh chopped coriander before serving.
Wine Paring Errazuriz Estate Shiraz 2009 Aconcagua Valley, Chile
(£8.06 from Waitrose Wines)
For the best results when pairing this type of food with wine, the fragrant and more mellow red fruit flavors and soft tannins will sit alongside the spices without competing. Syrah ticks all these boxes and is a top choice of red for Indian food. Chile is the new dark secret in being able to deliver world class quality wines and you can pick them up at great prices online and from the supermarket.
Thursday
Dec162010

Review: I Love Curry by Anjum Anand

People of the world, spice up your life

Ever since I was a child I was fascinated by cook books. I could spend hours flicking through recipe books salivating over pages of blancmanges, vol au vents and varieties of en croutes (it was the '80s folks give me break). What is more I still do.  Yet when we were faced with reviewing Anjum Anand's lates recipe book “I Love Curry”, it raised an interesting question, what makes a recipe book good? With these factors in mind, we wanted to know if Anjum's book was good.

We decided that a recipe book can not be all things to all men. It has to fulfil a pre-defined criteria.  Then one has to ask, did she achieve her goal?

prawn mild curry with cashew nuts

Background of the chef
Anjum Anand or the “Nigella of Indian cuisine in Britain” (who came up with that?), is completely in tune with our healthy cooking ethos.  Brought up in London, she has also lived in Europe and worked in the US. Her passion is creating healthy, delicious and stylish Indian dishes in the home.  She has also had a noteworthy stint on TV.

Does Anjum own a restaurant?
No

Is the Book Themed?
The format of the book is in keeping with a classic cook book; canapé style starter, vegetarian, meat and fish curries in the main courses section and a number of accompaniments.

Tarka DahlWho is it for?
The book is for above average Indian curry lover cooks, who would like to create restaurant quality food in their home.  Interestingly, whilst Anjum's meals are healthy, there is no compromise on taste whatsoever, at least not in the five dishes we trialed.  Interestingly enough, Keith and I ate at Indali Lounge about a month ago and our friends were horrified that we were eating at a “healthy” Indian restaurant.  However, we do not understand that sentiment.  Food should be judged on flavour, aroma, presentation and texture, not on fat content. 

Bengali yoghurt fish

Uniqueness of the book
There are Indian cook books for the health conscious on the market, however none of them are as stylish or colourful, both aesthetically and in terms of content, as Anjum's. You can sense that there are no compromises in her recipes either in delivering a balanced meal or in authenticity.  We would have no issues in serving her recipes at a dinner party.

Aromatic rice pilafOur Experience
Keith has experimented with five dishes; Begali yoghurt fish, tarka  Dahl, aromatic rice pilaf, prawn mild curry with cashew nuts and lastly instant naan bread.  We have to say the fish, dahl and pilaf was absolutely fantastic.  I even told Keith it was the best curry he had ever made, which quite possibly insulted him, but it was so good it just slipped out.  Sorry Babes, I do love you.  The prawn curry was equally good in terms of flavour, but we had a bit of a fail as we used cocktail prawns which were not meaty enough.  It was still outstanding.  We had another second minor fail, as Keith forgot to add milk and yoghurt to the instant naan bread, which resulted in it turning into a bit of a Frisbee.  I still scoffed it down none the less.  

Instant Nann bread

On Sunday, when we were deciding which dishes to cook, there was a moment where we were literally flicking past every page as the recipes either seemed too involved or the spices seemed to inaccessible.  However, we chose the Bengali fish randomly and Keith went to our local supermarket and sourced all the ingredients fairly easily.  Despite, there being a “secrets to Indian Cooking” couple of pages and a spices 101, we would recommend this book for people who are comfortable with Indian cooking.  That said, panic not.  Anjum has graciously already published a book for the novice, Indian Food Made Easy.  Thumbs up.  It means you can still put this on your Christmas list, but add the other one as well.

Price of the book
Amazon £7.99

True to the authors ethos?
Definitely.

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Saturday
Nov272010

Review: Indali Lounge, Baker St. …the guilt free curry house?

He was sitting Indali Lounge of the Empire Hotel

We felt compelled to complete our week of posts on UK National Indian Curry week by reviewing a restaurant. It is freezing in London at the moment and a curry seemed just the ticket for warming us up. We decided we wanted to eat at a healthy Indian restaurant.  We found two, one of which was Indali Lounge in Baker Street. The principle and credo of the Indali Lounge is to avoid butter and ghee in their foods altogether.  We were eager to taste the results.   

We arrived a little early so that we could enjoy an aperitif in the bar, which looked quite appealing on-line.  Indeed it was chic and sleek, with sprays of lilac and Eastern influences.  I enjoyed the house champagne cocktail an Indali Royale, whilst Keith chose a Passion Mojito. Our cocktails were served with light poppadums and three types of chutneys, all of which were delicious; onion, mango and mint. 

The wine menu had a number of wines of good reputation a Gewürztraminer Pfaffenheim, Chateau-neuf du pape, Chablis.  However, the menu was safe and unambitious.  It would have been interesting to have had a choice of more experimental options.  We picked the Gewürztraminer Pfaffenheim, which of course in a perfect pairing with spice. 

For Starters I chose the Goa masala grilled prawns and Keith picked the Salmon in Kerala spice.  Both were fabulous.  You would not have an inkling that they were in any way low fat.  Keith’s salmon had been slow cooked (one of Indali’s many methods for retaining flavour) and the texture was amazing.  It was so soft it just melted on your tongue like ice-cream.  There was some heat in the spice coated around the salmon, but it was not overpowering.  My chunky prawns were also fabulous; Aromatic with just the correct amount of sweetness from the coconut. We were off to a good start. 

For our main courses I picked the Chicken Tikka and Keith went with the Old-Delhi Chicken kofta curry.  Both were fine  tasting, but we did feel there was room for improvement.  For example, the chicken tikka had all the correct flavours but was missing something in the consistency.  We debated whether Indali Lounge should have perhaps called it something different, but I will come to that. Keith’s koftas lacked texture and the sauce needed a kick.  The “naan” bread meanwhile was delicious.  It was oaty and fluffy.  

By dessert we were surprisingly stuffed, partly because we fell in love with the naan bread and when the waiter popped around with extra fresh hot bread, my weak willed nature kicked in, and I accepted an extra slice (or two).  We decided to share a dessert of Homemade Fresh Kalakand Mawa with Almond & Pistachio which is a North Indian traditional desert of milk pudding concentrate baked with ground almond flavoured with saffron and cardamom, served with a section of Kulfi.   The milk pudding was slightly too rich and sweet for our palates and the presentation was not great, but the Kulfi was fine and tasted of vanilla ice-cream. 

We love the Indali Lounge concept of healthy eating, because we know that with fresh ingredients, texture, consistency and carefully crafted flavours it is possible to achieve amazing results.  We believe that Indali Lounge has made a great start, one which we hope people will go and enjoy for themselves, if for no other reason than to have an opinion.  There are some areas which we think they could improve upon. 

Firstly, weirdly there is no dhansak on the menu.  This is strange.  A dhansak can be a great healthy curry with is packed with flavour and rich in texture and consistency. 

Secondly, rather than linking back to commonly known dish like the tikka, they chould perhaps consider creating standalone Indali Lounge signature dishes.  The fact that you constantly have this comparison in your mind, makes it harder to judge the curry for itself.  In this way, for example, the naan bread, could actually be called a flat bread, which is what it more closely resembled. 

Thirdly, where they lack taste through fat, they should concentrate on creating texture to their food.  For example Keith’s koftas were made of fine-ground chicken. Had they used minced meat, it would have added coarseness to the food and therefore more of a contrast to the sauce. 

We also felt that made they could cut back some of the sauce based curries and perhaps introduce sizzling or grilled dishes, which whilst healthy could also add some excitement to the menu. 

Lastly, the restaurant should work on show casing their food.  To that end, introducing a tasting menu of their signature dishes may be a great way of doing this. I walked away disappointed I had not had the opportunity to try more. 

We hope this does not sound like a negative review as we really loved the concept of Indali Lounge and would consider returning, especially through a health kick period.  We feel that even though they have been open for two years, they need further development to achieve excellence.  We love their philosophy and look forward to hearing more about their successes in the future.


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Thursday
Nov252010

UK Curry Week: Original wine pairings to enjoy with your curry

Sugar and spice and all things nice, kisses sweeter than wine

Think about Friday evenings after work.  Being at home.  Appraising your wine options.  Selecting. Uncorking. Pop.  Glug, glug, glug. Sip.  Heaven.  God we love wine.

There are many passions in our life.  One which we have not had an opportunity to write about in depth is our love of wine.  God we love wine. 

Today we attended An Around the World Wine Tasting event ay Vinopolis, in London Bridge.  Rather than walk around with our glass pointing at wine and saying “can we try the red?”, we thought since it is UK National Curry Week (21st to the 27th November), it would be interesting to investigate which wines paired well with spicy eastern foods, in particular Indian curries.  We wanted to avoid the contrived Riesling, Gerwurztraminer, Zinfandel options and investigate what else is out there.

The overwhelming consensus was that a wine pairing with spicy foods should either compliment or contrast.  Anything in the middle will get lost.  General advice was to avoid wines which were too tannic (therefore a full bodied red), or too sweet or dry.  Several of the stands, straight of the bat, mentioned rosés.  This is due to their light, fruity and demure nature.  In no particular order are the top seven wines which were recommended to us. The last two were quite good fun, so we threw them in for good measure.

Clos Poggiale, Corsica (white)

This Corsican wine is ideal with food of all sorts.  Its unusual weighty flavours, acidity and richness makes it robust enough to take on the mighty spice.

Stockists:  Tescos (when in stock), wineandco.co.uk £11.82

Vega de la Reina, Spain (white)

Apricot, aromatic and sweet, this wine naturally lends itself to spicy food.  We would recommend it with a prawn dhansak.

Stockists:  Fine Wine Sellers £7.99

Yalumba Barossa Bush Vine Grenache, Australia (red)

This versatile wine would be perfect with red or white meat and even fish. It has a beautiful crimson depth and the aroma of black fruits.  We loved the delicious, smooth and creamy texture commonplace in a Grenache.   This wine would be perfect at room temperature or even slightly chilled in the summer.

Stockists:  Majestics £8.99

Louis Roederer 2004, France

Vintage Champagne.  Nobody cares if it pairs well or not with spicy food.  No truly, sparkling wines do not lend themselves readily to spicy food.  If you were to do this correctly, then a sparkling rose bottle of fizz would suffice.  Now back to that vintage champagne…

Stockists:  TheDrinkShop.com £52.82

Durbanville Hills, Pintotage, South Africa (red)

We chatted to one the sommeliers at River Café, Emily O’Hare about our quest.  One of her recommendations was this sweet clove flavour wine.  We were warned that the smoky flavour of this wine can be quite overpowering.  However, she recommended pairing it with a spicy grilled or tandoor meat, which we agree would be perfect.

Stockists:  SAwinesonline.co.uk. A bargain at £6.99

Duc de Vendome, Saint Mont, France (white)

The fresh acidity of this white wine will cut through the heaviness of a spicy curry.  Whilst, the presence of exotic fruit and frail sweetness would also offset the heat.  This winery is actually located in the lesser known sub region of Gascony in south west France.

We will leave it to the experts to provide the detail.

Stockists:  Waitrose:£6.64

Chateau Civrac, France (red)

35% Mabec, 50% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, this brooding red is quite robust looking and tasting.  The tannin structure of the wine may appear to be unsuitable for spicy foods, but its richness would probably put up a good fight.

Stockists:  Commercial only

If you have the cash and are curious:

Theophile, France

This creepy sounding wine is one to watch out for we believe.  There is a lot to say about the strange name (Homage to the trend setting Theo champagne of the 1930s) and unusual art deco packaging.  The champagne is quite interesting.  As a sister champagne to Louis Roederer, this sparkling wine is hot off the press (wine press that it is).  It has only just (and we mean just), been released.  Pale in colour and with a subtle bouquet, this champagne is made of young Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines.  We believe this wine would make the perfect aperitif to accompany a wide selection of canapés.

Stockists:  Still an orphan in that it is looking for a stockist, but available at Simpsons on the Strand

Inniskillin Rielsling Icewine 2007 – Niagra Peninsula, Canada

A wine from Canada?  Yes folks.  The wine is naturally frozen on the vine and picked when the temperature drops to -10C.  Only a fraction of nectar is captured from the grapes, which is fermented into what is known as icewine.  The syrupy wine is similar to a Sauternes in some ways, except it is lighter and has an excitement to it.  Perfect with dessert, you could possibly find this wine too heavy with a rich pudding.  However, the heaviness of the wine would complement a blue veined cheese perfectly.  Strange, we know…

Stockists:  DrinksDirect.co.uk £54.94

God we love wine

Tuesday
Nov232010

10 Essentials for cooking an Indian Curry

Spice up your life

This week is National Curry Week in the UK (21st to 27th November) and yesterday we began our celebration by cooking a Shahi Korma (Kingly Lamb). To continue the theme we are sharing with you what in our opinion are the essential ingredients and kitchenware needed to prepare a whole host of curry dishes.  Keith aka “Penn and Teller” has reluctantly agreed to share this with you.  You would think he was a magician who has taken “the code” rather than an amateur chef.  Anyway, have fun and enjoy some improvised fun. Just add your favourite meat, fish or vegetable! 

1. Whole Spices

Whole spices are the best to use when flavouring your Indian dish. The main reason is they still have retained the majority of their oils and this is where spices get their flavour. To get the most out of whole spices, it is a good idea to "toast" them slightly in a hot frying pan with no oil. Transfer the toasted spices to a mortar and grind with a pestle. Alternatively you can use a coffee grinder which has the same effect.           

  • Cumin seeds
  • Coriander seeds
  • Cardamom pods
  • Cloves
  • Fennel seeds
  • Bay leaves
  • Black pepper
  • Saffron

2. Powdered Spices and condiments

There are some spices and condiments that are more convenient when used in their powdered form. When putting together a dish on a weekday evening for instance, it is not always practical to toast and grind everything, so the below are recommended items to have in powdered form.

  • Cinnamon
  • Ground cumin
  • Ground coriander
  • Ground turmeric
  • Dried chilli powder or chilli flakes
  • Salt
  • White pepper

3. Grains, Lentils, Pulses and Nuts

There are many different flavours you can extract from the spices in Indian cooking but the texture of the food is also very important. Texture can be achieved through the different methods of cooking lentils and rice.

  • Red and split pea lentils - forms the base of dhal dishes and adds a thickness and boldness to a dish
  • Peanuts, cashews and almonds - add crunch, nuttiness and richness to dishes, whilst providing good oils.
  • Basmati rice - Indian dishes are usually served with rice. Fragrant Basmati rice particularly absorbs flavours of cardamom, saffron and cloves to make a delicious pilau.

4. Other Ingredients

To be able to reach out to a whole host of flavours, how you use the ingredients will distinguish the overall taste of your dish.

  • Sugar - use sugar as a sweetener to balance sour and salty flavours or enhance other sweet ingredients such as tomato
  • Coconut milk - provides a creamy texture and a subtle sweet and nutty flavour
  • Tamarind paste - adds a bitter sweet flavour to savoury dishes and chutneys
  • Root ginger - used to enhance blends of spices and add subtle heat
  • Onions or shallots - used as the base flavour and sweetens a dish
  • Garlic - not only is it great mixed with butter and spread inside a sliced baguette (although it is the future, I've tasted it!). When cooked cloves can offer a subtle sweetness, compliment the aromas and flavours from onions.
  • Plain low fat natural yoghurt - used in korma dishes to make them creamy, also adds a slightly tart flavour.  The tartness should be mellowed out by the onions and garlic or alternatively add a little sugar.
  • Fresh chilies - adds heat to dishes
  • Lemon and limes – the acidic flavour adds spark and excitement to dishes to awaken the taste buds

5. Groundnut or vegetable oil

It is best to use these oils as they are neutral and will not interfere with the spices and flavours.  We especially prefer these in place of ghee, the traditional fat used in curries.  Whilst ghee is fine to eat as a treat, it is very unhealthy and for everyday cooking you get the same effect by using the above mentioned oils. 

6. Food processor

Preparing curries from scratch can involve grinding, pummelling, chopping and shredding. When you are short on time we would recommend you invest in a compact processor / blender to shred minutes off your prep time. 

7. Pestle and mortar

As mentioned before, get the best out of using whole spices by toasting and then grinding with a pestle and mortar as this is the best way of exciting the oils and maximising the flavour. 

8. Dedicated saucepan with lid and heavy based

It is a luxury, but if you can invest in a dedicated heavy based pan to cook your curries in, it can help avoid contaminating other types of meals you make with the stronger and pungent spices 

9. Heavy bottomed frying pan or skillet

A lot of Indian food requires frying with strong spices in a pan so make sure you have something that's up to the task. 

10. A fine grater

This is a great way of mincing garlic, root ginger and zesting lemon and limes.

We wanted to help demystify the curry and encourage you to open your pantry rather than a jar from the supermarket!  Whilst this is not an exhaustive list it is a sound foundation and demonstrates a desire to invest time in learning how to cook Indian meals, as well as open doors into other Eastern cuisines. Please feel free to add your own comments below.

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Monday
Nov222010

Recipe: UK National Curry Week. Kingly Lamb Korma, a kingly curry!

Korma korma korma korma korma chameleon

It has been over 200 years since the first curry house was opened in Portman Square in London.  Since then, the UK has claimed the curry as its national dish and this week from the 21st to the 27th November is National Curry Week.  This incredible curry is from Keith’s first “cook book” sixteen years ago.  His housemate, who was in marketing, had a stack of these “cook books” / pamphlets as promotional material lying around the house. Despite the relative unsophisticated nature of our source the curry is wonderfully authentic.
In Kingly Lamb (aka Shahi Korma) the succulent lamb, is slow cooked until tender and the blend of spices are spot on to provide the dish with heat. The crunchy almond texture contrasts beautifully with the softness of the lamb.  What’s more it is super healthy.  We have made it with low fat natural yoghurt, fresh plum tomatoes and lean lamb. Try not to get put off by the long list of spices.  The actual preparation time excluding the marinating (2 hours) and simmering (45 minutes) is only about 20 minutes.  

 

Marinade ingredients:
  • 10 almonds coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1/4 tsp coriander seeds
  • 3 whole cloves
  • 2 cardamom pods
  • 3cm cinnamon stick
  • 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper corns
  • 1 tsp dried chilli flakes
  • 125g low fat yoghurt
  • 1 tsp salt
Other ingredients:
  • 350g lean lamb, diced
  • Thumb sized piece of root ginger peeled
  • Half a head of garlic, cloves peeled
  • 1 medium onion
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 tsp soft brown sugar
  • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 3 plum tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped
  • 1/4 tsp turmeric

Method:
  1. Heat a frying pan to a medium to high heat. Add the marinade spices to one half of the pan and the chopped nuts on the other half. Toast the spices and nuts for a couple of minutes, move them around a little. Remove the nuts from the pan and keep to one side. Don't worry if some of the spices slightly get mixed up with the nuts. 
  2. Grind the toasted spices with a pestle and mortar with the dried chilli until you have a powder.
  3. Mix the spices with the lamb in a bowl until the meat is evenly coated. 
  4. Pour the yoghurt over the meat, add the salt and mix well.  Cover with cling film and leave to marinade for two hours. 
  5. Finely chop the onion, ginger and garlic all together.
  6. Heat the oil in a pan, add the ginger, onion and garlic and fry gently for 2 minutes.
  7. Add the tomatoes, turmeric and cook for a further 2 minutes.
  8. Add the lamb with its marinade, sugar, nuts and the lemon juice and stir. 
  9. Reduce heat to a simmer, cover and leave to cook for 45 minutes to an hour, stirring occasionally. Add a little water if it becomes too dry during cooking. 
  10. The sauce should thicken up and evenly cling to the meat.     
  11. Add a little extra seasoning if required. 
We served this with pilau rice, mini naan bread and chapati.  Grab your Cobra beer or glass of Californian Syrah and tuck in.  Proper nosh!

 

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Wednesday
Nov102010

Lunch courtesy of Michelin Starred Benares in Mayfair, for £6.50

Wrap it up, I’ll take it

 

The inner students within Keith and myself, had been lying dormant for quite some time and then the opportunity came along for us to sample the new Benares lunchtime wrap promotion, delivered straight to your desk. We were high fiving ourselves as it was complimentary.  Atul Kochar is also a favourite chef of ours, just because we think he is good sort; humble, reserved and dignified.   

We of course had to debate the impact that accessibility in the form of “wraps” has on the reputation of a Michelin star chef. It is similar to Tom Cruise in Leicester Square signing autographs.  The longer he mingles with us plebs, the more accessible he becomes, then his star quality diminishes, the next minute you wouldn't bat an eyelid if you saw him purchasing a Burger King in the queue next to you.

Our conclusion was biased on account that we hold Atul in high esteem, but also more importantly the quality of the food would determine the success of the menu. If you need to impress a client over a boardroom lunch, slurping away on your curry whilst frantically scooping your rice with a naan bread is probably not the way to do it. Equally, a platter of Pret a Manger sandwiches does not say exclusivity and sophistication. A Benares logo on your lunch platter will speak volumes though, in terms of luxury and quality. 

Our lunch compiled of two wraps; chicken tikka with wasabi mayo and a spicy lamb seekh with red onion and mint chutney.  The promotion also includes a refreshing mango lassi for an additional £2.

The moist, chunky chicken breast pieces were marinated in a tandoori style tikka sauce, so no having to deal with a dripping wrap. There was a hint of smokiness in the spices which contrasted with the sweetness of the dressing and subtle punch of the wasabi mayo. We loved that the onions were not too strongly flavoured, so no having to reach for the tics tacs, at least not on account of the onions! 

The lamb was surprisingly fuller flavoured than the tikka.  It was spicier and whilst the red onions were distinctly present, their sweetness melded well with the mint.  The wrap it-self was a cross between a naan bread and Lebanese flat bread.  It was sturdy for want of a better word, in that it stayed in place and did not become saturated.

Benares will be selling their wraps at a bargain £6.50.  We think that it is extremely good value. They are offering 20% off the first order.  Unfortunately, we work in the City, so no delivery for us.  We would recommend you try them if possible.  That about “wraps” it up!

View the current lunch time and cocktail promotions: Benares Promotions (PDF)


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